Travel report: Southern Norway in 7 highlights


What would you do in this situation? You’re hesitating whether to go to the Dolomites in Italy or the Picos in Spain, so you start planning routes for both trips. Then, a week before the departure, the weather forecasts say: “Sorry guys, rain predicted in almost all of Southern Europe.” Which of these two options would you pick: stick to your guns and get your rain gear ready, or completely change your plans?


Two days before our departure, after one last look at the (not improving) weather maps, we made up our minds: forget the Dolomites, forget the Picos, we’re going to Norway. We had no desire for rain, and besides, Norway had already been on our shortlist for a while. After an evening of track plotting, the routes were ready.


Click for the map in a large format or download our routes here.

Here’s what we we came up with:

  • We focused on Southern Norway because a week is too short to explore the entire country.
  • We departed from Belgium on Saturday morning and drove to Hirtshals (Denmark), where on Sunday we boarded the Fjord Line ferry to Kristiansand (Norway). We arrived at around 2:15 PM, marking the true start of the trip.
  • From Sunday afternoon to Friday evening, we toured around Norway.
  • On Saturday morning, we took the ferry from Kristiansand back to Hirtshals, arriving at around 11:00 AM, and then tackled a little over 1000 km to get back home.
  • My riding companion: Shih (previously seen in the Alps and Andalusia, among others).
  • My steed for this trip: a Triumph Tiger 1200 GT Explorer (you can read the review here).


Instead of providing a detailed account of each day, this time I want to approach it differently: here’s Southern Norway in seven highlights.

1. Lyseveien

Also known as the FV500.


From the village of Lysebotn (where the only other way out is by ferry) we were treated to: a narrow tunnel with a 360° bend, 27 hairpin turns, and then kilometers of breathtakingly beautiful landscapes with rolling rock formations, grasses, mosses and streams, stretching out endlessly until you reach the T-junction with Sirdalsveien, about thirty kilometers further.


2. FV450 between Ålgård and Sinnes

A road of about 70 km, mostly running through wide canyons. On both sides, you’ll find impressive, mostly bare and flattened mountains. The Høgsfjord makes a brief appearance, but it’s the views of the Hunnevatn and Valevatn lakes that are truly worth it.


3. Suleskardveien

An amazing stretch of road between Suleskard and Nomeland.


For motorcyclists, it might be the most enjoyable 40 km of all our routes (although Lyseveien also scores very high for me). Narrower than FV450, with a great combination of twists and turns, water features, vast snow fields, and numerous variations on the “rock theme”.


According to certain sources, it’s also the highest road in southwestern Norway, reaching up to 1,056 meters above sea level.


4. E134 between Haukeligrend and Horda

Also known as the Haukelivegen. It’s a major connecting road, but what a road it is!


The ride may not be very challenging, but along the way, you’re treated to an incredible backdrop with views of vast lakes that were still largely snow-covered when we passed by.


5. 520

The 520 winds its way from the E134 in Horda to Hauda.


As we go the narrow road: magnificent views of Lake Røldalsvatnet, which are even surpassed by Lake Svartavatnet. My favorite photo opportunity of this trip.


6. Aurlandsvegen

A road of just over 47 km between Aurlandsvangen and Lærdalsøyri.


The duller option is the Laerdal Tunnel between the two places, which spans 24.5 km (and happens to be the longest tunnel in the world). But just ignore that tunnel because the detour, also known as Aurlandsfjellet, passes by some phenomenal viewpoints, including the Aurlandsfjord.


Traffic can get a bit busier around the fjord, but most visitors don’t seem to make the full 47 km crossing so after a while you’re cruising through desolate snow fields.


7. Hemsedalsvegen

Route 52 makes its way between Borlaug and Åsgardan. It’s 83 km long and has a certain Route 66 vibe. Km’s and km’s of straight road, views as far as the eye can see. Again, not the most challenging road for motorcyclists, but a unique experience it certainly is.


To wrap up this report, some final reflections:

  • Norway treated us to a full week of sunshine, which probably made our perception of the country a bit too idyllic. According to the locals we met, mist, rain and clouds are more common, and weeks like this happen only once a year. Consider yourself warned.
  • Motorcyclists who crave challenging rides rather than scenic beauty may be less enthusiastic about this destination. But if stunning landscapes are high on your checklist, Norway is a feast for the eyes. We were frequently amazed by the grandeur of its nature. The condition of the roads was also impressively good.
  • A week is short, but if you don’t have more time, it’s enough to get a good idea of what Southern Norway has to offer. And above all, it will whet your appetite to come back again. But next time, for a longer duration and, most importantly, to venture further north.

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